For most Australian wine drinkers, red wine automatically means oak barrels – whether that’s the comforting robe of toasty new oak, or the more discreet touch of neutral oak. But before the world put its reds into oak barrels, there was an ancient tradition of using large earthenware vessels to make wine – and like their international peers, Australian makers are rediscovering the wisdom of this age-old practice. With a small but growing cohort of makers working with these vessels to craft deft and supple red wines, we thought a Deep Dive into the matter was in order.
We gathered every example of Australian red wine that had been fermented and/or raised in amphora or similar earthenware vessels that we could find, regardless of grape variety or varieties used, and set our expert panel the task of finding the wines that compelled the most. All wines were tasted blind, and each panellist named their top six wines.
Our panel: Glenn James, winemaker, Billy Button and Clay Pot; Gilles Lapalus, winemaker, Maison Lapalus and Bertrand Bespoke; Andrea Roberts-Davison, lecturer in viticulture and winemaking, Melbourne Polytechnic; Masahiko Iga, head sommelier, Victoria Racing Club; Brad Lucas, proprietor, Cult of the Vine.
The Results
Of the 17 wines blind-tested, Trofeo Estate dominated the Amphora lineup with an impressive four of its vintages being chosen. This not only highlights the consistency and quality of their portfolio but also positions Trofeo as a leading producer in this specialised craft. The 2021 ‘The Chosen Few’ Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2022 ‘Single Block’ Amphora Pinot Noir, the 2021 ‘The Chosen Few’ Pinot Noir, and the 2020 ‘The Chosen Few’ Shiraz each received high praise for their complexity, elegance, and unique character derived from their terracotta vessels.
2021 Trofeo ‘The Chosen Few’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Mornington Peninsula
Roberts-Davison, Lucas, and Lapalus all selected this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Roberts-Davison found “deep ruby in colour, this wine greets you with layers of aromas that keep changing the more you sniff: stewed plums, rhubarb, blackberries, thyme, and even a touch of blueberry. Hiding in the background is a hint of earthy beetroot, thanks to a brush with amphora ageing. On the palate, blackberries and thyme are joined by chocolate and bay leaf. The lively acidity balances beautifully with silky yet firm tannins.” Lucas described it as “poised and polished, wedding density with delicacy in a satiny, middleweight frame. It shows crushed violets and pickled green peppercorns alongside soft, ashy tones that frame a palate of blood plums and charred jalapeño. Silty, beautifully resolved tannins prowl wide and long. This is cohesive, compelling and borderline ‘serious’, with brilliant byplay of darker fruit depths with finely tuned concentration.” Lapalus noted “deep red with a garnet hue and intense brilliance. The nose starts with great intensity of fruit – blackcurrant and tomato leaf. Well-balanced, with very soft and well-integrated tannins, and a finish that’s refreshed by a light bitterness that brings complexity. A very well-made wine, ready to drink now.”
